Parts to Men's Costume

Chemise/Shirt: This is the basic garment worn next to the body. It is made of some shade of white linen or cotton with long sleeves and worn hip-length or longer. The collar gets taller and more frilled as you move up the social ladder. A lower class man probably would have a simple band collar and a noble collar would be almost jaw high with a thick frill or ruff. At the lower end the fabric will be fairly coarse looking. The fabric becomes finer woven as you get richer and trims can be added to collars and cuffs.

Doublet: this is the main, vest-shaped, upper body covering. It's neck-opening sits at the base of the neck and may have a tall collar especially at the richer levels. The amount of detail depends on the station portrayed. Peasants would use a sturdy wool or cotton/linen fabric, tied, laced, or buttoned up the front. There wouldn't be extras like pick-a-dils at the shoulders or waist. The detachable sleeves would be of the same fabric. For the middle class use a nicer fabric with texture. The extras like pick-a-dils and trim are simple and it would probably button up the front with simple metal buttons. The sleeves might be of a nicer fabric and have some trim. The nobles get to use the best trims and fabrics like velvet, satin, and brocade. Trim the pick-a-dils, sleeves, and body of the doublet. Close it with fancy buttons. As a peasant, the doublet is usually a looser fitting, square shape. It gets better and closer fitted as you move up the ranks.

Often a jerkin, surcoat, or cape is worn over the doublet. A jerkin is a serviceable over-doublet cut to show but protect the main doublet. A surcoat is a hip length or longer, yoked, full coat often worn by doctors, dignitaries, or bureaucrats. A cape is a half or full circle cape that is about hip or waist length, lined and decorated as your station allows. These items complete the man's suit like the modern 3-piece suit.

Pants/Breeches: Men almost always wore pants of some sort. Tights alone were worn only for a very short time in the late 1400's. If there weren't pants, the skirts of the doublet reached at least mid-thigh. (also see Hosiery)

Hosiery: Unless you're portraying a very poor peasant, hosiery was usually worn. Tights are ideal for most middle and upper class men but get men's dance tights or have someone make them out of a stretch fabric. Women's hosiery if not opaque enough for men. If you must go without pants, please invest in a dance belt and dancer quality tights. Most modern men's socks are not ideal for costume use. Try women's plain knee-highs or over-the-knee socks in solid colors.

Shoes: The MRF site, like most sites, is unsafe for going barefoot so wear shoes. Use sandals, plain lace-ups, boots (usually knee high), or china flats. Cowboy boots, work boots and motorcycle boots do not work without alterations. If you use lace-up shoes, put a ribbon rosette over the laces. To minimize the impact of non-period shoes use simple black shoes and black hosiery. Men will need to spend more on shoes than women since they'll be a more visible part of the costume.

Headwear: Everyone should wear some sort of head-covering. Covering a modern hair-style or color is one of the easiest ways to bring your character out of the current century into the 16th century. Men often wore coifs under their hats especially laboring classes, older men, clerks, or doctors. A coif is a close fitting fabric cap that ties under the chin. For lower classes it could be made of fabric similar to the chemise. The middle class coif might be lightly trimmed or embroidered and the upper class coif even more so.

A hat is often worn over the cap or caul. A wide brimmed straw hat tied on with a cord works for peasants. Decorate with a flower or a common bird feather - no pheasants, ostrich, or exotic feathers. Flat caps (berets with a brim) in coarse fabrics work as well. As you move up the social ladder, the brims tend to get narrower and the crowns taller. Fabrics and trims get richer as well. The middle class should use ribbons, maybe a simple brooch, or slightly fancier feathers like turkey or pheasant. Leave the metal trims, jewels and ostrich and exotic feathers for the nobles. Tall Toad Hats at MRF makes a nice tall hat that's ideal for the noble class or the richest merchants.

Misc. Accessories:
Belts: Use a belt to hang necessities like your pouch and mug from but don't hang so many things on it that you look like Batman. For lower classes a simple leather belt works. As you move up the social ladder, some simple decoration can be added. More ornate buckles and gems can be added at the noble's class. If you wear a sword, the belt can be shaped to follow the line of the waist of the doublet.

Pouches: Pouches are the bags worn at waist level, either above the top skirt or under it. Again, keep it a simple cloth or leather bag for the lower classes and increase the decoration through fabric, beading, and trims as you move up in station.

Jewelry: The lower classes really shouldn't wear any. If necessary, find a simple, cheap, ring to substitute for the ornate wedding band. Middle class people can wear a simple chain, maybe with a cross pendant, a chain of office (i.e. a mayor) and simple rings. Of course the nobles can wear loads of jewelry although sumptuary laws also come into play here. Gemstones (real or not) are usually not highly faceted. Look for cabochon cut stones.

Swords: First of all - swords were limited to nobility by law. If you portray a soldier, you might have one. If you have a sword be sure it is period correct and has the right, secure, carrying gear. Before investing in one, research styles and how you'll use it. A sword for just wearing or displaying on a wall is made differently from one made for stage combat. If you plan to use a sword on site you MUST discuss it with the MRF fight director and abide by MRF rules